The Rise of Men in Skincare
A recent UK study concluded that in little over a year, searches for “skincare for men” have risen by an incredible 406%. In addition, it’s clear that male “skinfluencers” have been steadily on the rise over the last few years – alongside high-profile names such as Caroline Hirons and Alessandra Steinherr, James Welsh ranks amongst the top five British skincare gurus across social media. Outside of the digital realm, working professionally in the field of skincare is not just for women either. Take Dr. William Foley, leading UK aesthetician and facialist, as an example. With over 14 years of experience, his clients range from actors, celebrities, and practitioners, and he certainly knows a thing or two when it comes to skin advice!
Is Male Skin Really Any Different from Female Skin?
Firstly, it would be fair to question whether male and female skin types differ at all, especially in a world where gender is continuously shape-shifting. Is there really any difference between how men and women should treat their skin? Wouldn’t it be easier for everyone to buy the same products and prevent a pink tax nightmare while we’re at it? The answer is a mix of yes, and no. Of course, the world of high-end skincare has traditionally been dominated by women; however, there’s no reason men should not be allowed to feature in such advertisements and use luxurious skincare products. On the other hand, according to the experts, it is true that skin differs biologically between males and females.
Dr. Foley says, “Firstly, male skin has a thicker dermis by 20%, which is good news for men [in terms of] leaving the skin with less fine lines and wrinkles. Unfortunately, men have more pores than women, leading to higher oil levels which means men are more prone to breakouts, inflammation, and acne. There's also a higher risk of irritation on the skin through shaving, which can sometimes play havoc – shaving can leave the skin super sensitive and stressed. On the upside, it can add to the exfoliation process leaving skin smooth. One commonality across all skins is that we want to have a healthy skin barrier, and this can be achieved in both sexes with the correct skin care advice.”
We also spoke to Harley Street skincare expert Dr. Yusra Al-Mukhtar aka “The Glow Doctor”. “Men have thicker skin, particularly if they have been shaving for a long time which can cause thickening of the dermis. Men also tend to have more sebaceous glands, more sebum, and more follicles so may be more prone to breakouts,” she confirms.
She explains that folliculitis is common amongst men, and recurrent breakouts of follicle inflammation after shaving can require treatment, as well as concerns such as acne and acne scarring.
So, what are the top skincare routine tips for men?
Tip #5 – Keep it Simple!
One thing almost all of us can agree on: we are busy. Dr Foley says, “A lot of my male patients don't want many steps in their regime; they want a quick and easy-to-follow plan.” Starting simple and fuss-free will certainly feel less daunting and less time-consuming. Why not start with a base routine and slowly add more products or treatments over time only if necessary?
Tip #4 – Liquid Exfoliants
For men who shave, it’s common to develop ingrown hairs. For those with additional acne-prone skin, experts recommend incorporating a liquid exfoliant into your skin routine. “An exfoliating cleanser with a good percentage of salicylic acid will help with a high level of oil production to help minimise breakouts and ingrowing hairs if shaving,” says Dr. Foley. An exfoliator also helps to remove dead skin and stimulate the regeneration process of new skin.
Dr. Al-Mukhtar also rates an exfoliating cleanser to help remove those dead skin cells. “Liquid exfoliants are great,” she says. Her ingredient of choice? “Glycolic acid (which helps to break up dead cells) tends to work really well on male skin. A glycolic acid face wash to decongest the pores is a favourite of mine.” So, why a liquid exfoliant in particular? “We don't use any products with beads in case they get stuck in men's beards!”
Tip #3 – Serum
Also ranking high on the list is a facial serum. While men may be at lower risk for developing fine lines and wrinkles, nobody can go wrong with healthy-looking, revitalised skin. Dr. Al-Mukhtar recommends incorporating an antioxidant serum in the morning if possible. Dr. Foley’s antioxidant of choice is Vitamin C: “A vitamin C serum protects existing collagen and stimulates new collagen, keeping the skin looking youthful.”
Tip #2 – Eye Care
Perhaps the most eye-opening tip (pun intended) is remembering the eyes! While men are generally less prone to wrinkles and fine lines, the eye area may be the first to show signs of aging. “An issue that I'm treating a lot is tired-looking eyes and darkness around the eyes,” says Dr. Al-Mukhtar.
In the evenings, a gentle retinol can be used around the eyes to combat this concern. In fact, Dr. Al-Mukhtar believes retinol is the most important ingredient when it comes to anti-ageing: “It stimulates new collagen, brightens, and tightens the skin. It's a must.” For dark circles, she recommends an eye cream containing brightening vitamin C (which we now know is key)!
Tip #1 - Moisturiser and SPF (even for oily skin)!
Drumroll… the number one tip that skincare experts want you to know may come as no surprise. It’s fair to say that moisturiser and SPF are both super important regardless of sex. “While men's skin tends to be more on the oily side than dry, moisturiser and SPF, even for oily skin, is important,” says Dr. Al-Muhktar. Dr. Foley agrees, recommending SPF everyday to protect the skin from sun damage.
The Bottom Line
The main takeaway for men seems to be active exfoliation and, crucially, some form of moisturisation and SPF. For those who want to go a step further and have professional treatments, skin clinics and facialists are certainly seeing plenty of male clients as well as female. Dr. Al-Mukhtar comments that HydraFacial treatments are popular with male clients – a six-step deep cleanse of the skin to decongest pores, remove blackheads and improve skin health so it looks less grey and more radiant. Skin boosters are a more aggressive alternative for those looking for more. These are injectable moisturisers that can improve the appearance of concerns such as acne scarring.
And finally, if skincare really isn’t your thing, that doesn’t mean you can’t still look after your skin from the inside out. A good diet never goes out of style. Alternatively, why not give yourself a helping hand with ingestible skincare, such as high-quality vitamins or supplements?
So, it appears the gender norm of women having super-soft skin with elaborate skincare routines, while men simply splash their face with water, has been well and truly flipped on its head. There are indeed physical differences between men and women when it comes to skin, but that doesn’t mean that we don’t all deserve healthy skin and to look and feel our best.
